Saturday, March 12, 2011

Flawless foundation application

Sorry guys its been a long time but I am back!!!

Have you ever been one of those persons who say,"I never apply my foundation well" or "it always looks too heavy".

The way a base is applied makes all the difference!! This is for all those women out there who tip there foundation onto there hand and rub it all over because they think that is easier.
 I am sorry to say, STOP THIS AT ONCE!!!!

Most women want a foundation to cover all there imperfections, but still look like they have nothing on at all.

To achieve this follow these few steps and I guarantee you will thank me:


The colour wheel!!


Applying foundation with a brush.
  • Use a foundation brush- Yes it does feel weird the first time you do it, as one lady said to me "it feels like I am painting my face" well you are!!!. Hold the brush handle past the silver metal bit towards the handle.(see above picture) If you hold it too close to the bristle it will look streaky. A brush is the best way to give you an even application and save you $$$$ on foundation as there is no wastage. Always use fast short strokes down the hair line towards the jaw. Never brush upwards as you will stimulate any little hair on your face to stick up and it will make the make up look thicker.

  • Use a skin primer- No this is not the same as moisturiser and is not just a sales gimmick. A silicone based primer actually stops the makeup from going straight into your pores. Think of when you are painting a wall. If you just put paint straight on the wall it soaks it up quickly and you have to apply more coats, but when you prime the wall it fills in the little holes and stops the paint from soaking in. This also means that your face has a barrier from your foundation and can help prevent breakouts. Try putting your make up on with and without it and you will notice that with a primer on your make up stays on longer and looks more flawless.

  • Diagnose the face- Don't put a think layer of foundation everywhere. Apply foundation lightly starting from the bridge of your nose working down towards your jaw line. Where ever the foundation didn't cover use concealer to cover the small area. A great example is a red pimple. A trick to cover these is to mix a little green concealer into your  flesh coloured concealer. Try to choose a concealer that is yellow based as it will cover most discolouration on your face.(see colour wheel above ) Using the principle of colour on the colour wheel if you use a complimentary colour, this is the colour that sits opposite another colour on the wheel you will neutralise the colour you are seeing or in other words cover or block out. You can see green is the opposite of red, so as soon as the green concealer goes onto of the red pimple it disappears. This can also be effective when covering those dark circles under the eyes. Most people have a bluish -purple colour under there eyes. Look at your face closely, the colour under your eyes is different to the rest of your face, right!!! So why would you use the same colour and shade under the eye are? If you tried to paint white or a lighter colour over a dark purple wall it will look grayish. This is the same for those unwanted dark circles under the eyes, using the colour wheel's complimentary colour orange & yellow in a concealer you will make those dark circles disappear/ neutralise. (see the above colour wheel) If you do this you don't have to apply a lot of concealer and avoid those unsightly white rings around the eyes we have seen many times in photos.

  • You need powder- No matter what our age powder plays an essential role in not only making the skin appear more flawless but making our make up stay on. Powder needs to be very refined and put on with a powder brush. If you use this method and apply powder onto the t-zone area of the face first (nose and cheeks) then the rest of your face you will find that it will look great. For the clients with oily skin use a blotting powder for your t-zone separately. MAC has a great one that has saved my life from those embarrassing oil slick moments!!! Now for our more mature ladies as long as you have primed your skin and used a hydrating foundation, powder will not make you look older. It is the type of powder and colour that can do this. 

  • Colour choice- Avoid applying your foundation too light. The lighter it is the more imperfections it shows, think of white pants V's black ones. Most of the mature clients that I have encountered do wear there foundation too light not realising that this is the problem, not the powder. A rule is at least 1 shade darker than your skin tone. Don't worry it won't look orange if the colour is right.

  • Use a Bronzer- After our foundation is set applying a bronzer under our cheeks bones, along our hairline will not only make our make up look more natural but it slims the face. You can also use a bit under the chin to avoid seeing its twin! The easy way to work out where the bronzer goes is to suck in you cheeks and where the cheek hollows or goes in is wear the bronzer goes, avoid bringing it too close to your nose. Always use a blush brush to apply your bronzer. This is great for the women who are scared of wearing blush as it looks natural. Please understand that if you put on foundation and miss this step you will look more like you are wearing make up than not. The bronzer imitates the natural health of our skin and without colour to our face it looks more like we are wearing a mask. 

Applying a bronzer before and after shot!


Thanks for reading my blog!!!

Next Time:  How to apply natural eye makeup!!!

Justine V xo

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