Saturday, March 12, 2011

Flawless foundation application

Sorry guys its been a long time but I am back!!!

Have you ever been one of those persons who say,"I never apply my foundation well" or "it always looks too heavy".

The way a base is applied makes all the difference!! This is for all those women out there who tip there foundation onto there hand and rub it all over because they think that is easier.
 I am sorry to say, STOP THIS AT ONCE!!!!

Most women want a foundation to cover all there imperfections, but still look like they have nothing on at all.

To achieve this follow these few steps and I guarantee you will thank me:


The colour wheel!!


Applying foundation with a brush.
  • Use a foundation brush- Yes it does feel weird the first time you do it, as one lady said to me "it feels like I am painting my face" well you are!!!. Hold the brush handle past the silver metal bit towards the handle.(see above picture) If you hold it too close to the bristle it will look streaky. A brush is the best way to give you an even application and save you $$$$ on foundation as there is no wastage. Always use fast short strokes down the hair line towards the jaw. Never brush upwards as you will stimulate any little hair on your face to stick up and it will make the make up look thicker.

  • Use a skin primer- No this is not the same as moisturiser and is not just a sales gimmick. A silicone based primer actually stops the makeup from going straight into your pores. Think of when you are painting a wall. If you just put paint straight on the wall it soaks it up quickly and you have to apply more coats, but when you prime the wall it fills in the little holes and stops the paint from soaking in. This also means that your face has a barrier from your foundation and can help prevent breakouts. Try putting your make up on with and without it and you will notice that with a primer on your make up stays on longer and looks more flawless.

  • Diagnose the face- Don't put a think layer of foundation everywhere. Apply foundation lightly starting from the bridge of your nose working down towards your jaw line. Where ever the foundation didn't cover use concealer to cover the small area. A great example is a red pimple. A trick to cover these is to mix a little green concealer into your  flesh coloured concealer. Try to choose a concealer that is yellow based as it will cover most discolouration on your face.(see colour wheel above ) Using the principle of colour on the colour wheel if you use a complimentary colour, this is the colour that sits opposite another colour on the wheel you will neutralise the colour you are seeing or in other words cover or block out. You can see green is the opposite of red, so as soon as the green concealer goes onto of the red pimple it disappears. This can also be effective when covering those dark circles under the eyes. Most people have a bluish -purple colour under there eyes. Look at your face closely, the colour under your eyes is different to the rest of your face, right!!! So why would you use the same colour and shade under the eye are? If you tried to paint white or a lighter colour over a dark purple wall it will look grayish. This is the same for those unwanted dark circles under the eyes, using the colour wheel's complimentary colour orange & yellow in a concealer you will make those dark circles disappear/ neutralise. (see the above colour wheel) If you do this you don't have to apply a lot of concealer and avoid those unsightly white rings around the eyes we have seen many times in photos.

  • You need powder- No matter what our age powder plays an essential role in not only making the skin appear more flawless but making our make up stay on. Powder needs to be very refined and put on with a powder brush. If you use this method and apply powder onto the t-zone area of the face first (nose and cheeks) then the rest of your face you will find that it will look great. For the clients with oily skin use a blotting powder for your t-zone separately. MAC has a great one that has saved my life from those embarrassing oil slick moments!!! Now for our more mature ladies as long as you have primed your skin and used a hydrating foundation, powder will not make you look older. It is the type of powder and colour that can do this. 

  • Colour choice- Avoid applying your foundation too light. The lighter it is the more imperfections it shows, think of white pants V's black ones. Most of the mature clients that I have encountered do wear there foundation too light not realising that this is the problem, not the powder. A rule is at least 1 shade darker than your skin tone. Don't worry it won't look orange if the colour is right.

  • Use a Bronzer- After our foundation is set applying a bronzer under our cheeks bones, along our hairline will not only make our make up look more natural but it slims the face. You can also use a bit under the chin to avoid seeing its twin! The easy way to work out where the bronzer goes is to suck in you cheeks and where the cheek hollows or goes in is wear the bronzer goes, avoid bringing it too close to your nose. Always use a blush brush to apply your bronzer. This is great for the women who are scared of wearing blush as it looks natural. Please understand that if you put on foundation and miss this step you will look more like you are wearing make up than not. The bronzer imitates the natural health of our skin and without colour to our face it looks more like we are wearing a mask. 

Applying a bronzer before and after shot!


Thanks for reading my blog!!!

Next Time:  How to apply natural eye makeup!!!

Justine V xo

Monday, January 10, 2011

How to choose the right foundation for you!!!

Yes there are so many different types and colours of foundation that it can be overwhelming choosing the right one.

Don't be fooled by marketing and great advertising- Remember the girls in the photo's are 1) models & 2) airbrushed!!!

  1. You need to know what skin type you are? Here are the main skin types: Normal- Even skin with closed tight pores and  is Ph balanced. Dry- Looks flaky, rough to touch and can look patchy. Can have fine lines. Combination skin- Has an oily, shiny t-zone (this is the nose and either side of the nose, under the chin and in between the eye brows) and dry cheeks. Oily- This looks very shinny everywhere and is prone to breakouts. Acne- This skin has a lot of breakouts and tends to look red and is flaky around the breakouts. Mature- This skin can be more dryer but in some cases the skin is still very soft but lacks elasticity and has lines. Sun Damaged- Pigmentation which is brown spots, may appear red and can be very dry. 
  2. Establish what coverage you want? Foundations come in sheer coverage like a tinted moisturiser,  a thin or light coverage ( you can still see freckles scars and pimples through it), a medium coverage (this covers most discoloration), and thick which is a full coverage and covers just about everything. If you have pretty even skin and don't get blemishes than go for a thinner coverage. If you have uneven skin and blemishes go for a more thicker coverage so that you don't have to use too much. It saves you a lot of time and money if you get this right!!!
  3. What finish do you want? Matte which means no shine at all or semi matte that gives you a slight glow, Pearl tends to have a more luminous look or dewy this gives you and all over shine like you have just got out of the water. You need to make sure the finish suits your skin type e.g. a dewy finish doesn't really suit an oily or acne prone skin type as it wouldn't stay on long. As for a Matte finish it doesn't look good on a very dry or dehydrated skin as it will make it look dryer.This also applies to the mineral powders out there keep them away from dry or mature skin as it just makes them look worse.
  4. Now its time to go for what texture you want? There are so many of these on the market. Here are the main ones: Liquid, Mousse, cream (pan stick) and loose powder or pressed powder. They all are either water based or oil based. The texture you choose really depends on the finish you want and what skin type you are. If you need hydration or moisture for the dryer skin types than go for an oil based foundation as it will make the skin look more balanced.
  5. Many things can effect our skin and there are ways to prevent and fix some types. Drink plenty of water. Make sure that you remove all makeup before you go to bed because while you sleep your skin rejuvenates. Cleanse, tone and moisturise the skin morning & night using the right products for your skin type (see a beauty therapist or skin advisor). Avoid the sun! This is so important because not only does the sun dry your skin out its starts its aging process faster. I have avoided the sun all my life, and yes I am very white and fake tan is my friend but I am over 30 and have the skin of a women in her early 20's. Genetics also effects your skin, cultures and environment.
  6. The Occasion:You need to look at when you will wear the makeup up and where? This is very important because it will effect how your skin will look and how long it will stay on? If you are a chef that works in a kitchen under extreme heat then you need to choose a waterproof foundation. If you work in an air conditioned office than a water based makeup if fine. Think, does it need to be waterproof of not?
  7. Colour choice- What colour foundation am I? Choosing the right colour foundation to match our skin is often a tough one for many. There has been so many times when I have felt like walking up to someone and saving them from there tragic orange Ompa Loompa face or there Gothic white face  (Except for those who clearly are Gothic!). Our skin throws either pink (beige) or yellow in colour and many people have both colours in there skin. Your english rose tends to be pink based whilst your   mediterranean women is yellow based. You need to try before you buy!! NEVER choose a foundation colour by placing it on the front of your hand or the back of your wrist, and certainly don't try it on your neck!!!! You ask why ?well simply these parts are not the same colour as our face. Our hand sees more sun than our face does and our wrist and neck see less. The best way to colour match is from the side of your nose down to the jawline. Stand back and look at yourself in the mirror. Don't examine yourself up close or with a magnifying glass, no one sees you that close, not even you! By standing back you can see how your face matches the rest of your body. This is so important especially if you have a Tan as the face may be whiter than the rest of the body. If your foundation is too dark it will give you a more orangy muddy look and if it is too light your skin looks dull and grey looking. Don't be scared to go 1 shade darker because it makes your skin look healthier and more flawless. If you foundation is too light it shows any imperfections on your face and gives emphasis to any hairs and fine lines, you don't want that!!!

Next blog, flawless foundation application!!!

Signing off,
Justine V

Wednesday, January 5, 2011

Makeup tips

Many people have had a bad experience applying makeup or having makeup applied..

  • If you are a person who has been to a wedding and have felt the makeup artist made you look more like a drag queen than a bridesmaid this is for you.
  • If you have gone to a cosmetic counter and have felt overwhelmed and intimidated this is for you. 
  • If every time you wear makeup you tend to get an orange thick mask than this is for you.
  • If you simply think makeup is a waste of time or for others and not for you than this is for you.
  • Or if you wear makeup well and just want some extra tips than this is for you.

The main problem with makeup is not that it looks fake or unnatural, it is the education behind it.
Preparation and Application is the secret!
Yes makeup can look natural! When your partner tells you that they like you better without makeup just remember, who are they looking at when you go shopping, looking through magazines or on television?.
Yes believe it or not these people wear makeup!!!!  Apply makeup for you, use it to enhance your natural beauty.


"All women and men are beautiful, makeup just enhances their beauty!" 

Tip number one:
How your skin looks underneath really effects how the makeup looks on the top.

  • Make sure your skin is exfoliated at least twice a week and that you moisturise morning and night. You don't need to use anything too expensive. To choose a good exfoliant make sure the grain sizes are very even as this prevents any abrasion to the skin.
  •  If you apply foundation to your face and your skin is prepared well it looks more natural. Just imagine if makeup goes over a dry or flaky area you can see it, especially around the sides of your nose. Drinking plenty of water will also make your skin look more radiant.
  • A skin primer is very important as it helps give you a more flawless look. Primer also helps to protect your skin as it acts as a barrier. You want a skin primer that has water soluble silicone in it so that when you wash your makeup off it comes off too. Just imagine that when you apply the primer after moisturiser that it glides over the skin filling in slight imperfections. When you apply makeup over it you will use less as it doesn't get absorbed into the skin. This is not just cost effective because you use less it also ensures that it stays on so you don't have to keep reapplying your makeup during the day.
I hope these tips help you on your quest for a flawless base.



Next blog- How to choose a foundation for you!


Signing off ,
Justine V

Monday, January 3, 2011

Welcome!!!

 I have been told that I talk a lot by everyone. In primary school my report card always said excellent student if only she stopped disrupting the class. Would you believe that one of my boss's gave me a fog horn as a present.
 My love for makeup started when I was a newly developing teenager just wanting to cover a few blemishes so I wouldn't be embarrassed to face my peers. Makeup is all about transformation. It just makes you feel wonderful and it has transformed my life.

I teach makeup application for a living and always tell  my students that" I could eat makeup" thats how much I love it.
 I hope to take you on a journey into my world and show you how exciting it really is!!
Do me a favor watch Rihanna's new video clip " Who's that chick" and you will see how visually creative and wonderful it is. Thats all for now!!!